Hello! I want to say this blog is a god send for my friends and I. I wanted to ask if you know how to go about the attire that Ardyn Izunia (or Ardyn Lucis Caelum)wears. It looks like a fun cosplay I wanted to try and make it. What tips do you have for the vest, undershirt and the little gray thing that has a whole heck of holes on his shoulders. Thank you!!
I’ll split this one up into the different parts.
For the vest, the best advice I can give is to get a vest pattern and do whatever modifications you need from there. A garment like a vest is hard to draft from scratch or modify from another garment if you don’t have a lot of tailoring experience. I would recommend making a template for his appliques digitally, if you can, and then printing them out and cutting them, to ensure that they are even. You can also draw a template by hand with a ruler.
It appears that the order of sewing on the applique is: base fabric -> dark brown center -> light grey exterior. If you can get a fabric that doesn’t fray for the light grey, your life will be easier, since you won’t have to finish the edges.
A slight note – I noticed in one of the references I looked at that his vest buttons the opposite way than men’s vests usually do. I don’t know if that is consistent across refs (or if this one was mirrored), but it’s a tiny detail I thought was worth mentioning.
For the undershirt, the pattern seems simple enough, though you will likely need to hide a closure in it, such as an invisible zipper. I would HIGHLY recommend finding a fabric that comes pre-pleated so that you don’t have to do all that work yourself! Most pleated fabrics are synthetics, since the plastic can hold the fold easier than a natural fiber, and you won’t have to worry about maintaining the pleats by hand. I would recommend using a stiffer fabric or a sew-in interfacing in the collar, and then sewing the plated fabric to the outside for looks. This will keep the fabric stiff and upright, while still giving you the pleated look.
For the grey parts, you want a fabric that isn’t going to fray, first and foremost. A synthetic fabric can be cut with a heat knife to seal the edges, but what I would recommend is a high-quality felt. The edges won’t need to be sealed because it doesn’t fray, and you can get the same texture that his outfit has. (Bonus: you can use the same felt for the light grey vest applique!) A faux suede, as long as it doesn’t fray, would also be a good choice, as the texture seems to change between reference images.
The holes appear to have stitching around them, so here’s how I would go about this:
Make a template on tissue paper of where the holes need to go. Overlay this on your fabric, so you know where the holes need to be. (You can also trace it on with an erasable fabric marker.) Sew around the lines that you marked for the holes. Remove the tissue or the marker, and using a pair of sharp embroidery scissors, cut about 1/8″ from the stitch line, following the stitches, on the insides of the holes. Remove the fabric you just cut and repeat for the rest.
If your fabric isn’t stiff enough on its own to hold the shape you need, sandwich a piece of lightweight sew-in interfacing or some other kind of non-fraying, stable material between two pieces of your chosen fabric before sewing around the holes. Cut through all three layers at once. This will give the look of the same material on front and back, but give it a little more body.
Overall, this costume seems to be all about varying realistic textures to create a cohesive, but visually appealing, overall effect, so be sure to keep texture in mind when choosing your materials.
I hope that helps! Good luck :]