Hello. I am going to cosplay Olivier Armstrong from FMA brotherhood and was wondering how would I create a pattern for the military outfit and what type of fabric should I use. ~Thank you
There are a few ways that you can create a pattern:
The first is to find an existing sewing pattern but make alterations to it so that it more accurate. This is great if you want some guidance while sewing, or have found an almost-perfect sewing pattern. There are two ways you can make alterations, either by altering the pattern itself (like with Pattern Grading) or by making a mockup (a rough version out of muslin) and marking, cutting and altering it to be your new pattern. The challenge would be finding a sewing pattern that has the right structure. McCalls M4745 is generally recommended for military outfits but I have also seen people say they found it hard to adapt to the FMA uniform, so while it may be an option you may also want to look at other jacket patterns to see if there is a better one.
The second option is to use existing clothing as a pattern: either by cutting it up or using paper to make the pattern pieces by tracing the panels of the garment. You’ll have to remember to add a seam allowance and you may need to make some adjustments to your patterns for darts and tucks, so if you are replicating a complicated piece you may need to know about sewing to deconstruct it properly. This would work well for the pants of a FMA uniform. The jacket is a bit more complicated, you could probably use a jacket for the base pattern but from there I would suggest making a mockup and marking and altering it until you get the right shape.
The last option is to draft it from scratch. There are some guides on the tutorial list that can help you understand the process. You take your measurements and you use them to draw out the pattern, this can be done physically or digitally with illustrator and similar programs. Once again, you may want to draft a basic shape and then make a mockup out of muslin to do further alterations to. Here are some tutorials to help you out:
- Pattern Drafting 101
DIY – Basic Pattern Tutorial: The Mens Bodice
- Free Trouser Block
As for choosing fabric, you’ll want to think about how you want the uniform to look and feel. You may find it beneficial to look at other FMA cosplayers who made their costumes and ask them for fabric suggestions. If you want it to look realistic, look into what fabrics military uniforms use and find an alternative. You may be inspired by going to a fabric store and getting to look and feel the fabrics that are available. Personally I love cotton twill, the weave has a nice texture and I think it would work well for this application. Otherwise maybe a canvas “duck cloth”.
All the best,
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